Furniture and Substantial Items

The notion of ‘furniture’ is used loosely. Big, tangible  stuff will tend to go here.

Table Stand for Air Purifier

Top to bottom:

Pronged tee nut with bolt

Felt sheet

Plastic tub lid - 9.5”

Wood round, beveled edge - 11”

Threaded floor flange

Black steel pipe - ½” × 12”

Pipe coupler

Black steel pipe - ½” × 12”

Threaded floor flange

Primed corner block moulding - 3.5”

Hobby wood - ½” × ½” × 36”

Copper ceiling tile nails

Thick self-adhesive felt

Wipe the excess black rust protection off of the pipes.

If the shaft isn’t straight, you might need to tighten the pipes. Even then, there might be a little bit of a bend.

The bolt through the tee nut holds the felt and painted lid in place on the wooden round. 

A flange attaches underneath, into which a pipe is inserted.

The lid and moulding are painted. The tabletop and feet are walnut stained.

Cut the hobby wood in quarters, then round one end. Each of the feet is glued to the moulding block, then reinforced with the copper nails: one goes through the foot into the middle of the moulding block’s side, and the other goes through the middle of the foot’s side into the butt end of the adjacent foot.

When that’s done. cut and apply the self-adhesive felt.


Top to bottom:


Skateboard grip tape - 9” × 33”

Edge-glued wooden round - 24”

Lazy susan turntable, 1000# cap. - 12”

Edge-glued wooden round - 24”

Dowel - ¾” diam.

U.S. Penny

Traction stickers

• If needed, sand the rounds. Seal with lacquer (or similar).

• The hardware has three types of holes. The picture has been color coded: blue is for the bottom, red is for the top, and one of the green holes will be centered over an access hole (that you will drill).

• The best side of each round goes outside. On the inside of the bottom, use a center finder to mark the center. Center the  hardware, which should look like the picture when you lay it down. Align a red hole over a green one, and mark the center with a hole punch. Remove the hardware and drill a ¾” hole.

• Replace the hardware, centered on the round. Align a green hole over the access hole. Secure the hardware to the bottom with the blue holes. Put the top face down on a flat surface. With the hardware in between, lay the bottom over it and align the two rounds. Spin the upper round (i.e., the bottom) so the access hole lines up with the red holes and you can secure the hardware to the top round (which is currently face down). Hammer a short piece of (lightly glued) dowel into the access hole. Hammer the penny in after it. Apply plenty of thin feet (to increase floor contact) to prevent sliding.

• Apply the grip tape in whatever pattern you like. I put a spare 3” circle of translucent grip tape over the penny.

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